While up-top changing a lightbulb towards the end of the summer, I noticed that my forestay had unraveled near the eye at the masthead. Figured out that my 135 is 12" shorter luff than my 150 (which is what was causing the wrap on the stay which is what led to the unlaying of the stay in the first place) So, my main project this winter was to replace that. In order to do so, I had to disassemble the furler. That had a few issues as well. I had a good conversation with the gents at Rigging Only @ Strictly Sail.
Got the parts and am now good to go.
Projects:
Reinstall forestay and furler assembly
Replace backstay while I'm at it.
Add extension to the 135 luff (stainless 1/8" cable with eyes)
The usual draining of the rudder. Now sealing the rudder tube to rudder joint with 4200 after grinding out a channel.
Pulled the prop shaft to replace cutlass bearing. hopefully that'll dampen a vibration i had.
Repack rudder.
Repack prop shaft.
Then all the usual spring commissioning.

steved,

Do you do all that work yourself? I had the yard do the prop shaft packing and cutlass bearing this year..

Well, after swearing that I wasn't going to do anything else to my silly boat this year, I am tempted to try and replace the old fiberglass hatch with a groovy new acrylic one with a metal frame.

Easy enough, except for the arched deck / flat hatch issue.

There are standard ways to build up a teak/mahogany frame or build up an epoxy/glass frame, but i was wondering if there was a scheme from some manufacturer that maybe involved some sort of flexible gasket.

Ideas?

Bree,

How thick would the hatch be?

Damn, I'm in need of replacing my hatch boards, too. Who is good with wood work, here? What's a good protective coating? Not interested in varnish, or anything else that'll peel in time, but something that'll last forever! Any reason why I cannot simply coat with epoxy/resin and leave them like that?

Cedar strip boards i made last winter, simply coated with three coats of epoxy, no fading yet.

gallery.me.com/zmallory/100134/New%20doo...g?ver=13257863350001

I do the work myself; usually twice. Once to learn while screwing it up, and then again to fix it. Keeps me off the streets.

1. Bree, Probably because I'm most likely the biggest guy on this forum, I also wonder how thick the hatch will be? Having a little knowledge of plastics, I wouldn't go less than 1/2 to insure it doesn't break when someone accidentally falls on it. Just a suggestion.

2. Piratical Sailor did a piece on wood finishes this winter. They ran a three year test. Of course, I don't remember their favorite, but I do remember they didn't like mine - Minewax Helmsman. Wasn't bad, but not the best in the salt. It's been great for gun stocks, but then they don't get left out in the rain all year.

Doug

Zack, they look great. As with Steve, I typically do projects twice. Well, sometimes thrice

Oh, there is also a layer of fiberglass under the epoxy. i plan on doing new seats this spring and replacing the old cracking painted ugly plywood ones